Mendoza: Bikes, Wine, Sun and Fun

Our first full day in Argentina’s wine country was fantastic. As we were in fact on vacation we took our time getting started, but eventually we found ourselves on the number ten bus heading south from Mendoza’s city center towards the small town of Maipú. We picked up the rental bikes and pedaled our way a few miles to the south, making a some stops along the way to take in the wonderful scenery (ok, so not all of the scenery was wonderful, but we stopped where it was). Riding beneath the shade of the large sycamore trees (above, left) with acres and acres of vineyards around us was special. We eventually arrived at Familia Di Tommaso winery, realized we were famished and settled down for a tasty lunch. We took our time enjoying our meal, looking out over fields of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

After lunch we took a tour of the winery. Di Tommaso winery is a small family owned and operated facility. The winery was opened in 1869 by the Di Tommaso family, immigrants from Italy. The building that we toured was built in the 1860s and has been designated as historic. They don’t actually make wine at this location anymore, but you still get a feeling for the history and tradition of the winery. After viewing the large round brick vats where they used to make the wine (lined with beeswax, to prevent the wine from tasting like concrete), we went into the cellar. Here we got to see both bottles and casks of wine aging (top right and bottom left, above). And then, of course, the best part: the tasting. We tried four wines: a young Malbec (aged six months in the bottle), a ‘medium’ Malbec (aged six months in French oak barrels and then six months in the bottle) and an aged Cabernet Sauvignon (one year in French oak barrels and then one year in the bottle). I liked them all, but my favorite was probably the ‘medium’ Malbec (officially called ‘Crianza en Roble’ which means ‘Aged in Oak’). The Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are quite different and both make fantastic wines. To finish our tasting we had a shot of dessert wine, which was completely different from the previous three, but still pretty good.

Overall it was a very enjoyable day. The weather was in the mid 70’s and a light breeze kept us comfortable on the bikes. And, while not always relaxing, riding bikes through the sunny wine country of Maipú, Mendoza was really fun. I highly recommend a stop at Familia Di Tommaso; the wine is excellent, the tour is fun and the restaurant is a nice place to unwind.

Details:
Getting to Maipú: Take a number 10 system bus (the big number on the top of the window), specifically a 171, 172 or 173 route (the smaller number you will see in the bottom left corner of the front of the bus). As of this writing it costs $1.80 pesos per person each way. Tell the driver you want to go to the “Estación de Policia Coquimbito”. You either need to have exact change, or you can pick up a ‘Red Bus’ card at a kiosk that will cost you $3 pesos.

In Maipú: Once you get off the bus you’ll find a bunch of places renting bikes, looking at their brochures there appears to be very negligible differences between the stands. We used Mr Hugo’s for our rentals and had a pleasant experience with them. Look at the map your rental company gives you and decide on a plan of attack. Depending on your pace and the time of day when you start, keeping in mind that most bodegas shut their doors for an hour around lunch time and close for the day around 5pm, you may be able to see two or three wineries. If you plan on visiting multiple wineries, it is best to commence before noon.

Familia di Tommaso Winery: Located approximately 2.5 miles south of Mr Hugo’s bike rentals, this is a fantastic small family operated winery. Tours of the facility are done in English and Spanish and conclude with a tasting. They do not sell their wine anywhere except on the premises, so if you like what you try you’ll have to get a bottle to go.