Place des Vosges and Victor Hugo’s House

Place des Vosges was constructed from 1605 to 1612 under the direction of Henry IV and is the oldest planned square in Paris. Originally called Place Royale, it is truly a square – 140 meters by 140 meters (approximately 150 yards square) and was inaugurated for the marriage of Louis XIII (the king of France when the square was completed) and Anne of Austria in 1612. What is truly interesting about this square is that all of the exteriors of the houses are done in the same style with a predominate red brick facade (not a common sight now in Paris) with stone strips and vaulted arcades that stand on square pillars. The arcades are a joy to walk through, and now house restaurants, cafés and art galleries. There are a few fountains and several banks of flowers to enjoy. Along the edges you can find benches under the shade of trimmed trees that allow for a quiet place to relax and take in the view. In the middle of the square is a statue of Louis XIII (the original was torn down during the revolution, this is the replacement, a mere 185 years old) on horseback. Place des Vosges is a truly unique piece of Paris that allows visitors a quiet place to relax and escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Despite the original name, Place Royale, no royalty actually lived here. One of the most famous residents of Place de Vosges, Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885), is one of France’s most famous authors and was so popular that his remains have been placed in the Panthéon with other French historical figures. Hugo is mostly known for writing The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Misérables, but his body of work is extensive. Hugo was a prolific poet and many consider him to be one of France’s best poets, as well as a talented novelist. Not just a writer, Hugo was involved in French politics and an avid proponent of Republicanism (in France in the 1800s this meant that Hugo was in favor of government run as a republic (representatives elected by the people) in opposition to Royalists – those who believed in government being run by a hereditary monarchy). Hugo’s politics led to his living in exile from 1851 to 1870.

Before the Maison de Victor Hugo Museum was a museum it was a hotel where Victor Hugo and his wife Adele lived from 1832 and 1848. It was here that Hugo wrote the majority of Les Misérables before going into exile. The Hugos rented an apartment on the 2nd floor, but today the entire hotel has been transformed into a museum about Victor Hugo’s life and works. There is a gallery with photos taken of him and by him and friends. There are several first editions of his books on display, as well as a writing desk, ink and quill. There are entire rooms decorated exactly as he lived in exile in Guernsey at Hauteville House. The museum was opened in June of 1903 to the public and is operated by the city of Paris. Along with photographs there are also sculptures of Hugo and playbills from productions of Les Misérables that adorn the museum.

Place des Vosges straddles the line that separates the 3rd and 4th arrondissements of Paris and is easily accessible on foot from nearby Métro stops Bastille (M1, M5, M8), Chemin Vert (M8) and Saint-Paul (M1).

The Victor Hugo House is open to the public Tuesday through Sunday 10:00am to 5:30pm and entrance to the museum is free.